Patrizia Calefato
Datos Biográficos
| ID | 640595 |
|---|---|
| NOMBRE | Patrizia Calefato |
| NOMBRES | Patrizia |
| APELLIDO | Calefato |
| FIRMA | CALEFATO P |
| AFILIACIONES | University of Bari Aldo Moro |
| ORCID | 0000-0002-6217-3383 |
| VERIFICADO | Sí |
| TOTAL DE OBRAS | 20 |
| TOTAL DE CITAS | 8 |
| TOTAL COMO AUTOR | 19 |
| TOTAL COMO EDITOR | 1 |
| PRIMER AÑO DE PUBLICACIÓN | 1988 |
| AÑO MÁS RECIENTE DE PUBLICACIÓN | 2026 |
| ÍNDICE H | 1 |
Cultural Studies e Fashion Theory
Questo articolo ha per tema il rapporto tra gli studi di moda e i Cultural Studies. Analizzando l’eredità teorica e metodologica di questi ultimi, il mio scopo è quello di verificare quali concetti collochino, specificamente, la genealogia della Fashion Theory nella tradizione dei Cultural Studies: in particolare quelli di cultura, segno e corpo. Cercherò di spiegare come gli studi di moda siano stati declinati in ambito accademico, sia sul piano…
The body as text
This paper focuses on the relationship between fashion, language and the body. We refer to two theoretical starting points: Lotman's definition of language as a “primary modelling system”, and the relationship, identified by Barthes, between “real” and “written” fashion. The paper studies this relationship within four fields: the performative power of brands, the “playful” role of writing on T-shirts, the function of the written language in some …
La via delle mascherine
In questo articolo mi concentrerò sul ruolo delle mascherine facciali, resesinecessarie in tutto il mondo a causa della pandemia da Coronavirus del 2020, e trasformatesiin indumento alla moda. Inquadrerò la funzione delle mascherine nell’ambito del concettoantropologico (Lévi-Strauss), sociologico e semiotico della maschera, e le analizzeròin relazione all’immagine del corpo grottesco (Bakhtin). Partirò da una definizione dellamoda come sistema d…
Fashionscapes and fluid cities
Bianca e Blu Monica Bolzoni
“The object of design is the human body”: these words open Italian designer Monica Bolzoni’s “Manifesto”, where she described the concept of “fashion design” to her students at IUAV in Venice. Focusing on the body is very unusual among fashion creators of our time: every kind of body, not only the standard measurements of a fashion model, a human body, not a fetish, a body free of its choices, not constricted by fashion rules. It is not simple to…
Reflections on three decades of studies in fashion theory
Revêtir le voyage
Dans le contexte communicationnel actuel, le voyage et le mouvement à travers un espace jouent un rôle essentiel dans la définition des frontières et des formes du corps humain. Bruce Chatwin, l’écrivain nomade par excellence de la littérature contemporaine, rappelle que « l’être humain » se dit a-Gro ba en tibétain : ce terme désigne celui « qui va », « qui effectue des migrations ». Cette connotation anthropologique n’a jamais été aussi pertine…
Food-ography
Ever since Roland Barthes began to analyze food as a language, a symbol of culture and ideology, semiotics also began to study food in its connotative value or as a form of social identity and as a new “lifestyle.” As a matter of fact this approach is evident because our contemporary postmodern society can be defined as an orthorexic society, in which everybody, everywhere is constantly speaking about food. This phenomenon is called foodism, a pr…
Prelims
Fashion as cultural translation
In the last chapter of her book Primitive passions, Rey Chow focuses on cinema as a form of ethnography where cultural translation occurs in the postcolonial world. Chow develops Mulvey's perspective on visuality and gender in classical Hollywood film. In Mulvey's opinion, the act of looking at generates a male position where women are in the condition of being looked at. Similarly, in Chow's view, to look at corresponds to the western gaze, whil…
Language in social reproduction
This paper focuses on the semiotic foundations of sociolinguistics. Starting from the definition of "sociolinguistics" given by the philosopher Adam Schaff, the paper examines in particular the notion of "critical sociolinguistics" as theorized by the Italian semiotician Ferruccio Rossi-Landi. The basis of the social dimension of language are to be found in what Rossi-Landi calls "social reproduction" which regards both verbal and non-verbal sign…
On myths and fashion
Roland Barthes’s work has confronted contemporary culture with the question of what happens when an object turns into language. This question allowed Barthes to “construct” well known cultural objects — from novels to music, from images to classical rhetoric, from love to theatre — in an unthought way, and to create new, even more unknown ones — from contemporary myth to fashion, from Japan to food culture. In this paper, Barthes’s cultural criti…
The public square and the net
Mode in Italy by Simona Segre
Light my fire
Exhibition Review
(1999). Exhibition Review: Seeing + hearing = dressing. Fashion Theory: Vol. 3, No. 1, pp. 127-129
Fashion and Worldliness
Sebeok and Wittgenstein
Proper names in the symbolic economy of fashion
Fashion, the passage, the body
as for her figure, and she was admirably built, it was impossible to make out its continuity (on account of the fashion then prevailing, and in spite of her being one of the best-dressed women in Paris), for the corset, jutting forwards in an arch, as though over an imaginary stomach, and ending in a sharp point, beneath which bulged out the balloon of her double skirts, gave a woman, that year, the appearance of being composed of different secti…
Fashion and Worldliness
Language in social reproduction
This paper focuses on the semiotic foundations of sociolinguistics. Starting from the definition of "sociolinguistics" given by the philosopher Adam Schaff, the paper examines in particular the notion of "critical sociolinguistics" as theorized by the Italian semiotician Ferruccio Rossi-Landi. The basis of the social dimension of language are to be found in what Rossi-Landi calls "social reproduction" which regards both verbal and non-verbal sign…
On myths and fashion
Roland Barthes’s work has confronted contemporary culture with the question of what happens when an object turns into language. This question allowed Barthes to “construct” well known cultural objects — from novels to music, from images to classical rhetoric, from love to theatre — in an unthought way, and to create new, even more unknown ones — from contemporary myth to fashion, from Japan to food culture. In this paper, Barthes’s cultural criti…
Fashion, the passage, the body
as for her figure, and she was admirably built, it was impossible to make out its continuity (on account of the fashion then prevailing, and in spite of her being one of the best-dressed women in Paris), for the corset, jutting forwards in an arch, as though over an imaginary stomach, and ending in a sharp point, beneath which bulged out the balloon of her double skirts, gave a woman, that year, the appearance of being composed of different secti…
Proper names in the symbolic economy of fashion
Sebeok and Wittgenstein
Fashion and Worldliness
Exhibition Review
(1999). Exhibition Review: Seeing + hearing = dressing. Fashion Theory: Vol. 3, No. 1, pp. 127-129
Light my fire
Mode in Italy by Simona Segre
The public square and the net
On myths and fashion
Roland Barthes’s work has confronted contemporary culture with the question of what happens when an object turns into language. This question allowed Barthes to “construct” well known cultural objects — from novels to music, from images to classical rhetoric, from love to theatre — in an unthought way, and to create new, even more unknown ones — from contemporary myth to fashion, from Japan to food culture. In this paper, Barthes’s cultural criti…
Language in social reproduction
This paper focuses on the semiotic foundations of sociolinguistics. Starting from the definition of "sociolinguistics" given by the philosopher Adam Schaff, the paper examines in particular the notion of "critical sociolinguistics" as theorized by the Italian semiotician Ferruccio Rossi-Landi. The basis of the social dimension of language are to be found in what Rossi-Landi calls "social reproduction" which regards both verbal and non-verbal sign…
Fashion as cultural translation
In the last chapter of her book Primitive passions, Rey Chow focuses on cinema as a form of ethnography where cultural translation occurs in the postcolonial world. Chow develops Mulvey's perspective on visuality and gender in classical Hollywood film. In Mulvey's opinion, the act of looking at generates a male position where women are in the condition of being looked at. Similarly, in Chow's view, to look at corresponds to the western gaze, whil…
Prelims
Food-ography
Ever since Roland Barthes began to analyze food as a language, a symbol of culture and ideology, semiotics also began to study food in its connotative value or as a form of social identity and as a new “lifestyle.” As a matter of fact this approach is evident because our contemporary postmodern society can be defined as an orthorexic society, in which everybody, everywhere is constantly speaking about food. This phenomenon is called foodism, a pr…
Reflections on three decades of studies in fashion theory
Revêtir le voyage
Dans le contexte communicationnel actuel, le voyage et le mouvement à travers un espace jouent un rôle essentiel dans la définition des frontières et des formes du corps humain. Bruce Chatwin, l’écrivain nomade par excellence de la littérature contemporaine, rappelle que « l’être humain » se dit a-Gro ba en tibétain : ce terme désigne celui « qui va », « qui effectue des migrations ». Cette connotation anthropologique n’a jamais été aussi pertine…
Bianca e Blu Monica Bolzoni
“The object of design is the human body”: these words open Italian designer Monica Bolzoni’s “Manifesto”, where she described the concept of “fashion design” to her students at IUAV in Venice. Focusing on the body is very unusual among fashion creators of our time: every kind of body, not only the standard measurements of a fashion model, a human body, not a fetish, a body free of its choices, not constricted by fashion rules. It is not simple to…
La via delle mascherine
In questo articolo mi concentrerò sul ruolo delle mascherine facciali, resesinecessarie in tutto il mondo a causa della pandemia da Coronavirus del 2020, e trasformatesiin indumento alla moda. Inquadrerò la funzione delle mascherine nell’ambito del concettoantropologico (Lévi-Strauss), sociologico e semiotico della maschera, e le analizzeròin relazione all’immagine del corpo grottesco (Bakhtin). Partirò da una definizione dellamoda come sistema d…
Fashionscapes and fluid cities
The body as text
This paper focuses on the relationship between fashion, language and the body. We refer to two theoretical starting points: Lotman's definition of language as a “primary modelling system”, and the relationship, identified by Barthes, between “real” and “written” fashion. The paper studies this relationship within four fields: the performative power of brands, the “playful” role of writing on T-shirts, the function of the written language in some …
Cultural Studies e Fashion Theory
Questo articolo ha per tema il rapporto tra gli studi di moda e i Cultural Studies. Analizzando l’eredità teorica e metodologica di questi ultimi, il mio scopo è quello di verificare quali concetti collochino, specificamente, la genealogia della Fashion Theory nella tradizione dei Cultural Studies: in particolare quelli di cultura, segno e corpo. Cercherò di spiegare come gli studi di moda siano stati declinati in ambito accademico, sia sul piano…
Fashion and Cultural Textiles (11 obras) · Art (10 obras) · Philosophy (10 obras) · Linguistics (8 obras) · Sociology (8 obras) · Aesthetics (7 obras) · Epistemology (5 obras) · Philosophy (5 obras) · Visual arts (5 obras) · Psychology (4 obras)