Beverly Lemire
Biographic Data
| ID | 1097650 |
|---|---|
| NAME | Beverly Lemire |
| GIVEN NAMES | Beverly |
| FAMILY NAME | Lemire |
| SIGNATURE | LEMIRE B |
| AFFILIATIONS | University of New Brunswick |
| ORCID | 0000-0003-2960-3270 |
| VERIFIED | Yes |
| TOTAL WORKS | 38 |
| TOTAL CITATIONS | 74 |
| AUTHOR COUNT | 36 |
| EDITOR COUNT | 2 |
| FIRST PUBLICATION YEAR | 1988 |
| LATEST PUBLICATION YEAR | 2024 |
| H-INDEX | 5 |
Empire and the Fashioning of Whiteness
Textiles played a crucial role in defining gender, rank, and race in British imperial expansion during the long eighteenth century. This period saw an emphasis on whiteness in skin and cloth, symbolizing social status and racial hierarchy, with laundering, largely performed by low-ranked and racialized women, maintaining pristine garments representing social "whiteness." Everyday clothing, its care, and the opulent societal lifestyle of the elite…
The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
Volume I surveys the long history of fashion from the ancient world to c. 1800. The volume seeks to answer fundamental questions on the origins of fashion, challenging Eurocentric explanations that the emergence of fashion was a European phenomenon and shows instead that fashion found early expressions across the globe well before the age of European colonialism and imperialism. It sheds light on how fashion was experienced in a multitude of ways…
Vers une histoire globale de la mode
L’étiquette « globale » s’applique désormais à des champs aussi différents que l’éducation, la communication et l’environnement. La mode est d’addition récente, alors que ce que veut dire ou revendiquer la notion de « mode globale » n’a rien d’évident. Cette conversation entre cinq chercheuses et chercheurs qui travaillent à l’intersection de la mode, de l’histoire, des études muséales, des études régionales, de l’anthropologie et de l’ethnograph…
Object Lives and Global Histories in Northern North America
Object Lives and Global Histories in Northern North America explores how close, collaborative looking can discern the traces of contact, exchange, and movement of objects and give them a life and political power in complex cross-cultural histories. Red River coats, prints of colonial places and peoples, Indigenous-made dolls, and an Englishwoman's collection provide case studies of art and material culture that correct and give nuance to global a…
Dressed
Material Technologies of Empire
The look and shape, feel and function of the tobacco pipe footnote the transformational features of the early modern Atlantic world: landscapes of exchange. This article focuses on the multiple iterations of the pipe within the wider Atlantic basin arising from Indigenous forms, media that came to define this period, its solitary reveries and diverse sociabilities, systems of power, and deft resistances
Global Trade and the Transformation of Consumer Cultures
The oceanic explorations of the 1490s led to countless material innovations worldwide and caused profound ruptures. Beverly Lemire explores the rise of key commodities across the globe, and charts how cosmopolitan consumption emerged as the most distinctive feature of material life after 1500 as people and things became ever more entangled. She shows how wider populations gained access to more new goods than ever before and, through industrious l…
One British Thing
The clay tobacco pipe is a “British thing” distinct to its time, but that is a partial provenance. Although many thousands have been unearthed in Britain or described in British archival records, the pipe is also evidence of early globalized trade, imperial ventures, and material translation across cultures. Its Britishness is contingent. This small relic accompanied complex enterprises where a new-style masculinity arose, new racial categories w…
Thinking Fashion. A Historian’s Reflection
Our relationships with objects shape everyday life. They provide a recurring sensory familiarity, they shape routines, or they offer thrills as new things appear or styles change, challenging assum
A Question of Trousers
Trousers have a history. The British-imperial biography of this garment reveals the significance of ready-made clothing production for naval and merchant administrations with global reach. This history demonstrates the significance of male sartorial experiments in colonial settings. And it also confirms the rising importance of imperial and maritime cultures in shaping masculine ideals and habits of dress. Ultimately, middle ranked and elite male…
Distant Cargoes and Local Cultures in the Material Atlantic
Distant Cargoes and Local Cultures in the Material Atlantic Beverly Lemire (bio) The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800. By Robert S. DuPlessis. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2016. 369 pages. Cloth, ebook. METAPHORS spring to mind when reading The Material Atlantic: webs, threads, and braids. These images mirror the entangled histories addressed by the author, as European political am…
Interwoven Globe
This sumptuous volume is the companion piece to an equally gorgeous exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the fall and winter of 2013–2014. As the museum then announced, this was the firs
Men of the World”
Growing numbers of sailors powered British fleets during the long eighteenth century. By exploring mariners' habits, dress, and material practice when in port, this article uncovers their roles as agents of cultural change. These men complicated material hierarchies, with a broad impact on developing western consumer societies, devising a distinctive material practice. They shaped important systems of transnational exchange and redefined networks…
Charles Ludington. The Politics of Wine in Britain
Charles Ludington demonstrates the potency of wine as a marker of social rank, regional affiliations, and political parties in British history through the tumultuous years from the seventeenth to the mid-nineteenth centuries. Commodities and their systems of distribution, consumption, and reception reveal significant social, regional, and ethnic priorities, as well as the shifting preferences of discrete populations. As Ludington shows, one's cho…
Le goût du coton
Les pratiques de consommation ont fait l'objet de nombreuses études historiques dans les vingt-cinq dernières années. Les recherches se sont d'abord concentrées sur l'Europe de l'Ouest et l'Amérique coloniale, puis se sont ensuite élargies aux multiples aspects économiques, politiques et culturels de la consommation à travers le monde. La disponibilité de nouvelles marchandises a eu des effets sociaux et culturels profonds. D'importantes études c…
The Secondhand Clothing Trade in Europe and Beyond
Between 1600 and 1850 Europe was reshaped economically, culturally, and materially—the secondhand clothing trade was a vital factor in these events. Cloth and clothing represented among the most important and costly purchases for generations, lying at the heart of household budgeting, intersecting routinely with markets. The secondhand trade was a unique micro-enterprise vehicle, as well as a growing commerce for entrepreneurs. It stimulated reta…
Modernity and the second‐hand trade
Introduction
Fashioning Global Trade
Founded in 1683 in Leiden, the Netherlands, Brill is a leading international academic publisher in the Humanities, Social Sciences, International Law, and Biology. With offices in the Netherlands, Germany, Austria, the USA and Asia, Brill today publishes more than 360 journals and 2,000 new books and reference works each year as well as a large number of databases and primary source research collections
Fashioning Global Trade
This chapter discusses the dialogue on cotton's role in global trade by exploring our understanding of fashion in economic history and by analysing the long-term influence of Indian cottons on Europe's markets and people. It examines the particular consumerism expressed by men from the middling classes through to the elites. The marketplace resounded with the demands of men as consumers and, though they have been less often studied as an explicit…
East & West
Beverly Lemire, Giorgio Riello; East & West: Textiles and Fashion in Early Modern Europe, Journal of Social History, Volume 41, Issue 4, 1 July 2008, P
Consuming Splendour
Domesticating the Exotic
Domesticating the Exotic
Europe's burgeoning trade in the seventeenth century brought exciting new textiles from Asia to the west, at the same time as newly imported flora caused a frenzy among botanists, collectors, gardeners and speculators. Between 1600 and 1800, gardens were reconceived; at the same time, interior domestic spaces were also being redesigned. Imagined landscapes of exotic locales became the inspiration for a redesign of personal settings using the pain…
Consuming Anxieties
Dress, Culture and Commerce
This work examines a trade that covered the backs of sailors and soldiers, that shirted labouring men and skirted working women, that employed legions of needlewomen and supplied retailers with new co
Consumerism in Preindustrial and Early Industrial England
The secondhand clothes trade was a vital reflection of consumer demand in preindustrial and early industrial England, one that has gone unrecognized because of the nature of the trade. It did not involve the manufacture, finishing, or refining of raw materials or the sale of new commodities. It was largely invisible trade, leaving few records and generating no legislation. Yet the trade in secondhand clothing was a common feature of English life …
Fashion's Favourite
Popular fashion and East India trade - the advent of cotton textiles domestic demand in the 18th century - the British market for cotton textiles Who will buy? the consumer process and the cotton industry distribution and sale of British cottons in the home market marketing fashion - cotton clothing and the ready-made trade
East & West
Beverly Lemire, Giorgio Riello; East & West: Textiles and Fashion in Early Modern Europe, Journal of Social History, Volume 41, Issue 4, 1 July 2008, P
Men of the World”
Growing numbers of sailors powered British fleets during the long eighteenth century. By exploring mariners' habits, dress, and material practice when in port, this article uncovers their roles as agents of cultural change. These men complicated material hierarchies, with a broad impact on developing western consumer societies, devising a distinctive material practice. They shaped important systems of transnational exchange and redefined networks…
The Theft of Clothes and Popular Consumerism in Early Modern England
Journal Article The Theft of Clothes and Popular Consumerism in Early Modern England Get access Beverly Lemire Beverly Lemire Department of History, University of New Brunswick, P.O. Box 4400, Frederickton N. B. Canada E3B5A3 Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Social History, Volume 24, Issue 2, Winter 1990, Pages 255–276, https://doi.org/10.1353/jsh/24.2.255 Published: 01 December 1990
Domesticating the Exotic
Europe's burgeoning trade in the seventeenth century brought exciting new textiles from Asia to the west, at the same time as newly imported flora caused a frenzy among botanists, collectors, gardeners and speculators. Between 1600 and 1800, gardens were reconceived; at the same time, interior domestic spaces were also being redesigned. Imagined landscapes of exotic locales became the inspiration for a redesign of personal settings using the pain…
Second-hand beaux and ‘red-armed Belles’
Fashion, like luxury, has been largely conceived in terms of the elite experience. Indeed, the European fashion cycle was noted first among the aristocracy where the fashion system celebrated novelty over tradition, highlighting the individual aesthetic even as it consolidated the group identity of exquisitely garbed nobles. The counterpoints to the mutability of style were the legal constraints designed to curb the fashion impulse, bridling the …
Material Technologies of Empire
The look and shape, feel and function of the tobacco pipe footnote the transformational features of the early modern Atlantic world: landscapes of exchange. This article focuses on the multiple iterations of the pipe within the wider Atlantic basin arising from Indigenous forms, media that came to define this period, its solitary reveries and diverse sociabilities, systems of power, and deft resistances
A Question of Trousers
Trousers have a history. The British-imperial biography of this garment reveals the significance of ready-made clothing production for naval and merchant administrations with global reach. This history demonstrates the significance of male sartorial experiments in colonial settings. And it also confirms the rising importance of imperial and maritime cultures in shaping masculine ideals and habits of dress. Ultimately, middle ranked and elite male…
Domesticating the Exotic
Consumerism in Preindustrial and Early Industrial England
The secondhand clothes trade was a vital reflection of consumer demand in preindustrial and early industrial England, one that has gone unrecognized because of the nature of the trade. It did not involve the manufacture, finishing, or refining of raw materials or the sale of new commodities. It was largely invisible trade, leaving few records and generating no legislation. Yet the trade in secondhand clothing was a common feature of English life …
The Theft of Clothes and Popular Consumerism in Early Modern England
Journal Article The Theft of Clothes and Popular Consumerism in Early Modern England Get access Beverly Lemire Beverly Lemire Department of History, University of New Brunswick, P.O. Box 4400, Frederickton N. B. Canada E3B5A3 Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Social History, Volume 24, Issue 2, Winter 1990, Pages 255–276, https://doi.org/10.1353/jsh/24.2.255 Published: 01 December 1990
Fashion's Favourite
Fashion's Favourite
Popular fashion and East India trade - the advent of cotton textiles domestic demand in the 18th century - the British market for cotton textiles Who will buy? the consumer process and the cotton industry distribution and sale of British cottons in the home market marketing fashion - cotton clothing and the ready-made trade
Margins and Mainstream
By 1800, Jewishness and clothes dealing were so closely identified that they were often portrayed as one and the same thing, fusing into the single entity all the negative characterizations assigned to the two categories. Anti-semitism and xenophobia coloured attitudes towards Jews. But the taint of the second-hand trade was also passed on to the Jewish community as a whole. An eighteenth-century commentator, author of A Peep into the Synagogue ,…
Bobby Shafto’s Shirt and Britches
Thousands of Bobby Shaftos left for sea over the long eighteenth century. They travelled in merchant brigs to the Caribbean, manned naval vessels in a continuing circuit of wars and manoeuvres, staffed the ships and outposts of merchant companies from the fur-rich territories of Hudson Bay to tropical forts on the Gulf of Bengal. Their lives at sea and the fate of these ventures are well known for the most part. Less familiar is the history of on…
The Theft of Clothes and Popular Consumerism
Popular consumerism swept through England during the early modern period, centring first on appropriate apparel. Clothing in a wider breadth of fabrics and fashions was increasingly the article of choice among a range of classes well below the social median. The incentive to acquire a broader array of garments was a catalyst among shoppers around the kingdom, as well as for thieves working in town and country; indeed, it can be difficult to separ…
Introduction
The clothing trades assessed in this work are not those of court tailors and fashionable modistes, and neither is this a study of changing styles in dress. Rather this work examines the trades that covered the backs of sailors and soldiers; the trade in apparel that shirted labouring men and skirted working women; the trade that employed legions of needlewomen and supplied retailers with new consumer wares; the trade whose commodities, once bough…
Disorderly Women and the Consumer Market
Our knowledge of early modern economic activity in England has been selectively filtered through a dense historic mesh of economic agendas and theories laid down layer upon layer by historians in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. 2 Many of these historians were preoccupied with the transformations and innovations displayed within major textile, metallurgical, mining, transportation, banking and distribution systems. Records from these secto…
Redressing the History of the Clothing Trade
From 1650 to 1800, the clothing commonly worn in England underwent noticeable changes in fabrics, in styles and in the method of manufacture. Throughout the second half of the 1600s ready-to-wear apparel became a discernable and increasingly important part of the national clothing market in which the total annual consumption of clothing accounted for about one quarter of all national expenditure, in 1688.1 Manufacturers distributed a wave of prod…
Dress, Culture and Commerce
This work examines a trade that covered the backs of sailors and soldiers, that shirted labouring men and skirted working women, that employed legions of needlewomen and supplied retailers with new co
Second-hand beaux and ‘red-armed Belles’
Fashion, like luxury, has been largely conceived in terms of the elite experience. Indeed, the European fashion cycle was noted first among the aristocracy where the fashion system celebrated novelty over tradition, highlighting the individual aesthetic even as it consolidated the group identity of exquisitely garbed nobles. The counterpoints to the mutability of style were the legal constraints designed to curb the fashion impulse, bridling the …
Women and credit
Credit can be instrumental in equalizing opportunity and alleviating poverty, yet historically men and women have not had the same access. Partly because of this, women have been excluded from many previous economic histories. This book fills a significant gap in exploring the vexed relationship between the women and credit across time and space.Providing examples of credit agencies and initiatives in both the developing and developed world, Wome…
Consuming Anxieties
Domesticating the Exotic
Domesticating the Exotic
Europe's burgeoning trade in the seventeenth century brought exciting new textiles from Asia to the west, at the same time as newly imported flora caused a frenzy among botanists, collectors, gardeners and speculators. Between 1600 and 1800, gardens were reconceived; at the same time, interior domestic spaces were also being redesigned. Imagined landscapes of exotic locales became the inspiration for a redesign of personal settings using the pain…
Consuming Splendour
East & West
Beverly Lemire, Giorgio Riello; East & West: Textiles and Fashion in Early Modern Europe, Journal of Social History, Volume 41, Issue 4, 1 July 2008, P
Fashioning Global Trade
This chapter discusses the dialogue on cotton's role in global trade by exploring our understanding of fashion in economic history and by analysing the long-term influence of Indian cottons on Europe's markets and people. It examines the particular consumerism expressed by men from the middling classes through to the elites. The marketplace resounded with the demands of men as consumers and, though they have been less often studied as an explicit…
Fashioning Global Trade
Founded in 1683 in Leiden, the Netherlands, Brill is a leading international academic publisher in the Humanities, Social Sciences, International Law, and Biology. With offices in the Netherlands, Germany, Austria, the USA and Asia, Brill today publishes more than 360 journals and 2,000 new books and reference works each year as well as a large number of databases and primary source research collections
Introduction
The Secondhand Clothing Trade in Europe and Beyond
Between 1600 and 1850 Europe was reshaped economically, culturally, and materially—the secondhand clothing trade was a vital factor in these events. Cloth and clothing represented among the most important and costly purchases for generations, lying at the heart of household budgeting, intersecting routinely with markets. The secondhand trade was a unique micro-enterprise vehicle, as well as a growing commerce for entrepreneurs. It stimulated reta…
Modernity and the second‐hand trade
Le goût du coton
Les pratiques de consommation ont fait l'objet de nombreuses études historiques dans les vingt-cinq dernières années. Les recherches se sont d'abord concentrées sur l'Europe de l'Ouest et l'Amérique coloniale, puis se sont ensuite élargies aux multiples aspects économiques, politiques et culturels de la consommation à travers le monde. La disponibilité de nouvelles marchandises a eu des effets sociaux et culturels profonds. D'importantes études c…
Charles Ludington. The Politics of Wine in Britain
Charles Ludington demonstrates the potency of wine as a marker of social rank, regional affiliations, and political parties in British history through the tumultuous years from the seventeenth to the mid-nineteenth centuries. Commodities and their systems of distribution, consumption, and reception reveal significant social, regional, and ethnic priorities, as well as the shifting preferences of discrete populations. As Ludington shows, one's cho…
Fashion and Cultural Textiles (23 works) · Political science (22 works) · History (18 works) · Sociology (18 works) · Law (17 works) · Archaeology (13 works) · Art (13 works) · Business (13 works) · Clothing (13 works) · Historical Economic and Social Studies (13 works)