Rethinking the 'Spetctrum of Luxury'

Roman jewellery is often seen as a clear marker of wealth and luxury. While it is often classified and analysed as a single class and with an emphasis on pieces composed of gold and other precious materials, it is only when we start to look at the differences between individual objects that we can get a more nuanced understanding of this material culture and its role in Roman society and culture. Undoubtedly there was a market for comparable forms of jewellery for women from different socio-economic backgrounds to display similar aspects of their identities but within their own budgets (e.g., young, (presumably) married mothers-to-be). It is only by considering the spectrum of luxury that we can highlight how differences in quality and design reveal important choices behind the use of particular items of jewellery or packages of personal adornment. In other words, we should be cautious of grouping all jewellery together and under the simple label of ‘luxury.’ Not all gold jewellery, for example, was created equal. On cover:Late Roman wall, the portion immediately south of the West Gate (Porta Oea) with re-used blocks from first-century mausolea (Drawing by Francesca Bigi) and Tombstone of Regina from South Shields (Arbeia) (Tyne and WearArchives and Museums/ Bridgeman Images). E-ISSN (online version) 2611-3686 ISSN (print version) 0065-0900

Adornment · Aesthetics · Art · Art history · Visual arts · Fashion and Cultural Textiles · History

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