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A Wizard of Silks and Tulle”

Charles Worth and the Queer Origins of Couture

Bibliographic Data

ID10867795
AuthorsJoseph Joseph (corresponding author)
Year2014
Volume56
Issue2
Pages251
Publication date2014-01-01
Open AccessNo
TypeARTICLE
VenueVictorian Studies (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 0042-5222 • E-ISSN: 1527-2052
PublisherIndiana University Press (PUBLISHER • US)
DOI10.2979/victorianstudies.56.2.251
OpenAlexW2058681362
LanguageEN
Citations received3
References cited10

Charles Worth, founder of the modern couture system of fashion production, scandalized his contemporaries with his incursion into the sphere of women's dress. The satirical, hostile journalistic accounts of Worth, from his rise to fame in the 1860s through his death in 1895, suggest that "the great man-milliner" escalated Victorian anxieties about gender and value. Simultaneously, the memoirs of Worth's fans reveal the genesis of a species of cross-gender relationship between designer and clients that is chaste but enamored, controlling but also collaborative. Reading across these opposing perspectives, I argue that Worth embodies a queer Victorian masculinity based not in sexual preference or effeminacy but in social and material relations to women, and that the opulence of his work transcends the boundary between fashion and art

Art · Art history · Composite material · Queer · Sociology · Velvet · Wizard · Wizard of oz · World Wide Web · Art, Politics, and Modernism · Computer Science · Decadence, Literature, and Society · Fashion and Cultural Textiles · Gender Studies

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Citations per year0.6
Citation span2021 - 2025 (5)
Highly citedNo

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