The Cleaved Garment
The Maker, The Wearer and the “Me and Not Me” of Fashion Practice
Bibliographic Data
| ID | 12587769 |
|---|---|
| Authors | Ellen Sampson (0000-0003-3922-2770, corresponding author) |
| Year | 2017 |
| Volume | 22 |
| Issue | 3 |
| Pages | 341-360 |
| Publication date | 2017-09-03 |
| Peer Reviewed | Yes |
| Open Access | No |
| Type | ARTICLE |
| Venue | Fashion Theory (JOURNAL) |
| Journal identifiers | ISSN: 1362-704X • E-ISSN: 1751-7419 |
| Publisher | Routledge (PUBLISHER • GB) |
| DOI | 10.1080/1362704x.2017.1366187 |
| OpenAlex | W2751817193 |
| Language | EN |
| Citations received | 13 |
| References cited | 21 |
This article explores the ways that the self and the garment may become entwined—how through the acts of making and of wearing clothes, the garment and self become cleaved, both to and from one another. The article presents the processes of making and of using garments as both a negotiation with the garment’s materiality and the projection of the user’s fantasy onto their material form—processes through which the maker or user’s agency may become entangled with the material agency of the garment. Though the relationships between “the wearer and the garment” and between “the garment and the maker” have been addressed, these two sets of relationships are often viewed as bounded or mutually exclusive. The distance between maker and user in contemporary commodity cultures often renders the maker inert in the experience of the wearer; the maker’s agency is viewed as bounded within the transaction of making. This article suggests a rethinking of this dynamic, examining the ways that the maker is present for the wearer in their experience of the garment
Aesthetics · Agency (philosophy · Art · Clothing · Database · Database transaction · Materiality (auditing · Negotiation · Sociology · Computer Science · Crafts, Textile, and Design · Cultural Industries and Urban Development · Fashion and Cultural Textiles · History
‘No Small Share of Ingenuity’
“Like Stitches to a Wound”
Australian Aboriginal Textiles
Optics of Obvious Mending
Looking for Maternity
Upcycling with Material Debris
The Embodied Turn
The Deceptive Mirror
Fabrics of Memory
Digital video-based research in fashion
Democracy in female fast-fashion
My Cherished Garment”
In their shoes
The Oxford Handbook of Material Culture Studies
Art And Agency
Why Women Wear What They Wear
Phenomenology of Perception
Agency, Biography and Objects
Things Happen
Body Dressing
Transitional objects and transitional phenomena 1 —a study of the first not-me possession 2
Seaming Hands
Fashion and Anxiety
Hooked on Vintage
The International Journal of Psychoanalysis
Inalienable Possessions
Making
Doing Sensory Ethnography
The Gender of the Gift
Art and Agency
| Unique citing works | 13 |
|---|---|
| Citations per year | 1,86 |
| Citation span | 2019 - 2025 (7) |
| Citation velocity | recent |
| Highly cited | No |
| Citation types | Neutral: 13 |