Skip to main content

ETHNOS_APP

Home • Search • Journals • List 0

Shame, Blame, and Passion

Affects of (Un)sustainable Wardrobes

Bibliographic Data

ID12587782
AuthorsM P Mcintyre (0000-0003-4966-5313, corresponding author)
Year2019
Volume25
Issue6
Pages735-755
Publication date2019-10-15
Peer ReviewedYes
Open AccessYes
TypeARTICLE
VenueFashion Theory (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 1362-704X • E-ISSN: 1751-7419
PublisherRoutledge (PUBLISHER • GB)
DOI10.1080/1362704x.2019.1676506
OpenAlexW2981211762
LanguageEN
Citations received16
References cited31

In order to change consumption patterns into something that is more sustainable, it is essential that we consider the various and conflicting meanings clothes have in people’s lives. This article presents an analysis of diaries written by consumers of different ages and occupations over a period of three months in 2015. These consumers documented their clothing and shoe purchases, took inventory of the contents of their wardrobes, and reflected upon their clothing consumption. The aim of this study is to examine consumers’ use and consumption of clothing and how they deal with dissonances in relation to what they see as ‘sustainable’. What motivated their consumption? What compromises did they make? and What were the processes that determined their choices? The authors of the diaries claimed that they wanted to consume clothing in a sustainable manner, but they found that they did not. Direct criticism of the fashion system was often elusive and difficult for them to articulate. Consequently, instead of asking for the creation of a different fashion system, the authors of the diaries blamed themselves for their failures with respect to sustainable clothing consumption. Drawing on Affect Theory, the article discusses how emotional attachments informed the authors’ relationships with their wardrobes and the conflicting emotions surrounding the pleasure and pain of fashion. In their texts, they provided a number of different explanations as to why they bought, kept, and used clothes to justify why they consumed clothing even if they did not want to consume or felt that they should not. The diarists also remarked on how this made them feel about their consumption. Some claimed to “love” fashion. Others wrote they “hated fashion”, whilst others stated that they “didn’t care at all”. However, as was the case for all of the authors, the dream of owning a ‘perfect’ wardrobe pervaded their texts and worked as a way for them to deal with the dilemmas, contradictions, and struggles of fashion

Advertising · Aesthetics · Affect (linguistics · Art · Blame · Business · Clothing · Consumption (sociology · Criticism · Order (exchange · Pleasure · Political science · Shame · Sociology · Sustainability · Sustainable consumption · Crafts, Textile, and Design · Environmental Sustainability in Business · Fashion and Cultural Textiles · Law · Psychology · Social Psychology · Marketing

  • How chefs talk about sustainable seafood

    Open Access•Michelle Phillipov, Fred Gales•Food Culture & Society•2026

  • Classic design

    Open Access•Mary Alice Casto, Marilyn Delong•Fashion Style & Popular Culture•2020

  • Fashionable detachments

    Open Access•Elias Mellander, M P Mcintyre•Consumption Markets & Culture•2021

  • Optics of Obvious Mending

    Kate Sekules•Fashion Theory•2025

  • Sustainability and the Fashion Media

    Morna Laing•Fashion Theory•2024

  • On Not Fixing Things

    Open Access•Ellen Sampson•Fashion Theory•2025

  • Lasting Bonds

    Open Access•Ana Neto, João Ferreira•Fashion Theory•2023

  • Could you teach new tricks to old dogs? An analysis of online communication of political leaders in Spanish regional elections

    Open Access•Sergio Pérez Castaño, Javier Antón-Merino et al.•Frontiers in Political Science•2024

  • Clothing as embodied gestation

    Elizabeth Anne Weigle•International Journal of Fashion…•2025

  • B(l)ending research methods

    Tommy Tse, Diego Semerene et al.•International Journal of Fashion…•2024

  • Reflections on blending garment analysis with wardrobe interviews

    S Wood•International Journal of Fashion…•2024

  • Second-hand clothes, first-hand mindset

    Elena Pease, Lettica Hustinx et al.•International Journal of Fashion…•2024

  • Memories reminisced, reconciled, renewed

    Open Access•Tommy Tse, Johanna Von Pezold•Journal of Consumer Culture•2023

  • The last thing I would think about is how to dispose of it’

    Open Access•Tommy Tse, Fan Xiao•European Journal of Cultural…•2025

  • My Cherished Garment”

    Tomás Errázuriz, Emilia Müller•Fashion Theory•2022

  • A Historical Culture of Clothing Circularity

    Open Access•Lorinda Cramer, Elizabeth Anya-Petrivna•Fashion Theory•2026

  • Writing Culture

    K Fortun, James Clifford et al.•Writing Culture•1986

  • Why Women Wear What They Wear

    Sophie Woodward•Why Women Wear What They Wear•2007

  • The Cultural Politics of Emotion

    Sara Ahmed, Sara Ahmed Sayed Ali•Cultural Politics of Emotion•2014

  • Second-Hand Cultures

    Nicky Gregson, Louise Crewe•Second-Hand Cultures•2003

  • A Consumer Vision for Sustainable Fashion Practice

    Kathryn Reiley, Marilyn Delong•Fashion Practice•2011

  • Slow Fashion

    Kate Fletcher•Fashion Practice•2010

  • Point of Purchase

    Sharon Zukin•Point of Purchase•2018

  • Cultural Studies and Anti-Consumerism

    Sam Binkley, Jo Littler•Cultural Studies and Anti-Consumeri…•2014

  • Ordinary Affects

    Open Access•Karie Stewart, Kathleen Stewart•Ordinary Affects•2007

  • Green Consumption

    Open Access•John Connolly, Andrea Prothero•Journal of Consumer Culture•2008

  • A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing

    Ingun Grimstad Klepp, Mari Bjerck•International Journal of Social…•2012

  • Sizing up the Wardrobe—Why We Keep Clothes That Do Not Fit

    Elizabeth Bye, Ellen Mckinney•Fashion Theory•2007

  • Clothes at Rest

    Saulo B Cwerner•Fashion Theory•2001

  • Reading Fashion as Age

    Ingun Grimstad Klepp, Ardis Storm‐Mathisen•Fashion Theory•2005

  • Bjorn Again? Rethinking 70s Revivalism through the Reappropriation of 70s Clothing

    Nicky Gregson, Kate Brooks et al.•Fashion Theory•2001

  • Fashion and Anxiety

    Alison J Clarke, Alison Clarke et al.•Fashion Theory•2002

  • The Chicago Guide to Collaborative Ethnography

    Luke Eric Lassiter•The Chicago Guide to Collaborative…•2005

  • The Affect Theory Reader

    Melissa Gregg, Gregory J Seigworth•The affect theory reader•2010

  • Parables for the Virtual

    Open Access•B Massumi, Stanley Fish et al.•Parables for the Virtual•2002

  • Beyond the ABC

    Open Access•Elizabeth Shove•Environment and Planning A…•2010

  • What is consumption, where has it been going, and does it still matter

    Open Access•David M Evans•The Sociological Review•2019

Unique citing works16
Citations per year2,67
Citation span2020 - 2026 (7)
Citation velocitycurrent
Highly citedNo
Citation typesNeutral: 16

Tools

Open DOISci-HubOpen Access
Ethnos_APP • Open Source Project • MIT License • Frontend v2.0.0 • Privacy and Cookies • API Documentation: api.ethnos.app/docs • API Source Code: GitHub • DOI: 10.5281/zenodo.17049435 • Frontend Source Code: GitHub • DOI: 10.5281/zenodo.17050053 • cruz.rio.br • Expectantes Misericordiae