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Moveable feasts

Reflections on Shanghai’s street food

Bibliographic Data

ID12800077
AuthorsAnna Greenspan (New York University, corresponding author)
Year2017
Volume21
Issue1
Pages75-88
Publication date2017-12-21
Peer ReviewedYes
Open AccessNo
TypeARTICLE
VenueFood Culture & Society (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 1552-8014 • E-ISSN: 1751-7443
PublisherRoutledge (PUBLISHER • GB)
DOI10.1080/15528014.2017.1398472
OpenAlexW2780520453
LanguageEN
Citations received9
References cited30

Shanghai’s officials and urban planners often equate development with “cleaning up the streets.” The snacks (xiao chi 小吃) that are sold from the small shops and mobile stands—dumplings steamed in wooden baskets, nighttime barbeques, carts selling stir-fried noodles—are seen to belong to a past that must be overcome. This paper reflects on the changing fate of Shanghai’s street food in order to analyze tensions between a regulated, formal commercial sector and a much more anarchic informal economy as it plays out in the making of the future city. It argues that the informal is not simply a temporary phenomenon, and that the evolutionary conception of economic growth in which a “backward” black market progresses to a more “advanced” formal sphere masks a deep (and sometimes violent) struggle. Shanghai’s importance as a model for twenty-first century urbanism rests not only on its high-speed trains and super-tall skyscrapers, but also, just as vitally, on its street food, street markets and street life

Advertising · Archaeology · Business · Economic growth · Economics · Economy · Geography · Informal sector · Order (exchange · Phenomenon · Sociology · Urbanism · Anthropological Studies and Insights · China's Socioeconomic Reforms and Governance · Migration, Ethnicity, and Economy

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Unique citing works9
Citations per year1,29
Citation span2019 - 2025 (7)
Citation velocityrecent
Highly citedNo
Citation typesNeutral: 9

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