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Race as Aesthetic

The Politics of Vision, Visibility, and Visuality in Vogue Italia’s “A Black Issue”

Bibliographic Data

ID13086655
AuthorsBrandi Thompson Summers (0000-0003-3072-3595, Virginia Commonwealth University, corresponding author)
Year2017
Volume4
Issue3
Pages81-108
Publication date2017-10-01
Peer ReviewedYes
Open AccessNo
TypeARTICLE
VenueQED A Journal in GLBTQ Worldmaking (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 2327-1574 • E-ISSN: 2327-1590
PublisherMichigan State University Press (PUBLISHER • US)
DOI10.14321/qed.4.3.0081
OpenAlexW2786410154
LanguageEN
Citations received2
References cited8

This essay highlights the construction of black bodies as valuable in the fashion system as a mark of difference and evidence of diversity. Here, I also render the high fashion industry as a site of conflicting elements concerning the deployment and meaning of the black female body. To do so, I use a combined analysis of activism in the fashion industry, which calls for the representation of black models through the visible inclusion of more black bodies on the runway and in magazines, and a textual/image analysis of the July 2008 issue of Vogue Italia, “A Black Issue.” I argue that representations of the black models in the Vogue Italia Black Issue present the “glamorous” black model’s body as unthreatening, alluring, and integrated into dominant discourses of feminine attractiveness. I draw from the presentation of images in the high fashion industry to highlight instances when blackness is asked to prove a post-race and post-racist reality. In an industry in which models are celebrated for being “blank palettes” for designers and fashion editors to mold into a stunning work of art, I ask, what might black do here? Through the aesthetic transformation of race, the neoliberal dimension of race is being played out in the name of art and taste, making race visible even as it elides racism and locating (racial) difference under the rubric of cultural diversity. Therefore, the presentation of black bodies becomes less about their blackness, and more about their ability to sell a marketable black aesthetic

Aesthetics · Art · Diversity (politics · Political science · Politics · Presentation (obstetrics · Race (biology · Racism · Representation (politics · Sociology · Visual arts · Gender Studies · Italian Fascism and Post-war Society · Law · Media, Gender, and Advertising · Race, History, and American Society

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Unique citing works2
Citations per year0.67
Citation span2023 - 2026 (4)
Citation velocitycurrent
Highly citedNo
Citation typesNeutral: 2

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