Skip to main content

ETHNOS_APP

Home • Search • Journals • List 0

Eight Scenes of Suzhou

Landscape Embroidery, Urban Courtesans, and Nineteenth-Century Chinese Women’s Fashions

Bibliographic Data

ID15028072
AuthorsRachel Silberstein (0000-0001-8346-3147, corresponding author)
Year2015
Volume36
Issue1
Pages1-52
Publication date2015-06-01
Peer ReviewedYes
Open AccessNo
TypeARTICLE
VenueLate imperial China (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 0884-3236 • E-ISSN: 1086-3257
PublisherProject MUSE (PUBLISHER • US)
DOI10.1353/late.2015.0001
OpenAlexW2099888214
LanguageEN
Citations received1
References cited14

This article examines a late Qing woman’s jacket embroidered with eight well-known Suzhou garden and temple sites. Such an object makes little sense within the conventional historiography of Chinese dress, long dominated by regulated garments like dragon robes and rank badges, and consequently, concerned with themes of imperial status and official rank. I argue that the jacket is best understood, instead, at the juncture of three wider historical processes: the popularisation of tourism, the commercialisation of embroidery, and the role of urban courtesans in nineteenth-century Suzhou. Combining close analysis of material culture with a wide range of textual sources, in particular folkloric records and urban “bamboo ballads”, the article demonstrates the impact of handicraft commercialization and widening material consumption upon late Qing women’s fashions, and explores the degree to which these developments enabled women to connect with and contribute to popular urban culture. The jacket thus highlights not only the economic salience of commercialized handicrafts, but also the growing visibility of women in the early modern Chinese cityscape

Aesthetics · Amateur · Archaeology · Art · Cityscape · Clothing · Custodians · Folklore · Handicraft · Political science · Sociology · Urban culture · Visual arts · Crafts, Textile, and Design · Fashion and Cultural Textiles · Historical Art and Culture Studies · History · Law

  • Cloud Collars and Sleeve Bands

    Rachel Silberstein•Fashion Theory•2016

  • Technology and Gender

    Francesca Bray•Technology and Gender: Fabrics of…•1997

  • What Remains

    Tobie Meyer-Fong•What Remains: Coming to Terms…•2013

  • The Chinese City Between Two Worlds

    Mark Elvin, G William Skinner•The Chinese City Between Two Worlds•1974

  • Superfluous Things

    Craig Clunas•Superfluous Things•1991

  • Precious Records

    Susan Mann•Precious Records•1997

  • Female Hands

    Gilbert Fong, Grace S Fong•Late imperial China•2004

  • In Search of Leisure

    Weikun Cheng•The Chinese Historical Review•2007

  • Bondage in Time

    Dorothy Ko•Fashion Theory•1997

  • On Their Dress They Wore a Body

    Paola Zamperini•positions asia critique•2003

  • Ancestors and Tomb Robes

    Jean Mailey, Jean E Mailey•The Metropolitan Museum of Art…•1963

  • Kosode

    Marie Lyman, Amanda Mayer Stinchecum et al.•Monumenta Nipponica•1985

  • China's Dragon Robes

    Jean-Pierre Dubosc, Schuyler Camman•The Far Eastern Quarterly•1953

  • The Fall of Public Man

    Joann Chirico, Richard Sennett•Sociological Analysis•1980

Unique citing works1
Citations per year0,1
Citation span2016 - 2016 (1)
Citation velocityhistorical
Highly citedNo
Citation typesNeutral: 1

Tools

Open DOISci-Hub
Ethnos_APP • Open Source Project • MIT License • Frontend v2.0.0 • Privacy and Cookies • API Documentation: api.ethnos.app/docs • API Source Code: GitHub • DOI: 10.5281/zenodo.17049435 • Frontend Source Code: GitHub • DOI: 10.5281/zenodo.17050053 • cruz.rio.br • Expectantes Misericordiae