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Contextualizing Wertmüller's 1785 Portrait of Marie-Antoinette through Dress

Bibliographic Data

ID21551427
AuthorsKendra Van Cleave (0000-0002-5418-8817, corresponding author)
Year2020
Volume54
Issue1
Pages56-80
Publication date2020-03-01
Open AccessYes
TypeARTICLE
VenueCostume (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 0590-8876 • E-ISSN: 1749-6306
PublisherEdinburgh University Press (PUBLISHER • GB)
DOI10.3366/cost.2020.0143
OpenAlexW3011428499
LanguageEN
References cited11

Wertmüller's 1785 portrait of French Queen Marie-Antoinette was a disappointment when first exhibited, a reaction partially explained by the conflicting associations surrounding the Queen's dress. This article examines the gown worn by Marie-Antoinette in the portrait — a robe à la turque — and its wider context in 1770s–1780s France. The gown, which was probably a real garment, corresponds to contemporary fashion plates and extant garments of the same style, whose distinct cuts demonstrate their connection to Turkish dress. The style's fashionability and formality is considered, as well as its role in the Queen's wardrobe and reputation. The turque joined other Ottoman-inspired French fashions in aligning with the Enlightenment ideas about simplified, unostentatious dressing that Marie-Antoinette embraced. However, the turque opened the Queen to criticism based on its fashionability, as well as connections between Ottoman dress, luxury and eroticism

Archaeology · Art · Art history · Portrait · Visual arts · European Political History Analysis · Historical Art and Culture Studies · Historical Gender and Feminism Studies · History

  • Queenship and Revolution in Early Modern Europe

    Open Access•Carolyn Harris•Queenship and Revolution in Early…•2016

  • Western Ethnocentrism and Perceptions of the Harem

    Leila Ahmed•Feminist Studies•1982

  • Turquerie

    Antonella Bevilacqua, H Pfeifer•Past & Present•2013

Highly citedNo

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