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The isimodeni style

Traditional beadwork, Zulu trinket or South African sartorial tradition on Durban's Golden Mile

Bibliographic Data

ID2186885
AuthorsRowan C Gatfield (0000-0003-0908-1401, University of Lincoln, corresponding author)
Year2019
Volume42
Issue2
Pages127-148
Publication date2019-04-03
Peer ReviewedYes
Open AccessNo
TypeARTICLE
VenueAnthropology Southern Africa (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 2332-3264 • E-ISSN: 2332-3256
PublisherInforma UK Limited (PUBLISHER • GB)
DOI10.1080/23323256.2018.1538735
OpenAlexW2925897483
LanguageEN
Citations received3
References cited19

Beadwork is a well-documented aspect of the socio-political culture of isiZulu-speaking groupings in Southern Africa. Whilst scholarship on beadwork deals largely with the denotative and connotative value it offers wearers, this article’s contribution relates both to its commodification and apolitical value by confronting a general assumption that a beadwork style known as isimodeni (modern beadwork), produced as a trinket for tourists along Durban’s racially stratified Golden Mile since the 1960s, is an authentic representation of a Zulu material culture. The paper probes how traditional beadwork and rickshaw rides (with both highly decorated carts and pullers) were earmarked by tourism officials of the time as commodities that could serve a demand for colourful exoticism and accessible “Zulu” culture. Methodologically, the article draws on the visual analysis of beaded artefacts and photographs, in addition to ethnographic data derived from unstructured interviews with beadworkers on the Durban beachfront, to examine how a beadwork tradition transformed into a “Zulu” tourism commodity, and then transmuted into a nationalised form of ethnic identity and sartorial tradition

Archaeology · Art · Commodification · Ethnography · Exoticism · Political science · Scholarship · Sociology · Style (visual arts · Tourism · Value (mathematics · Visual arts · Zulu · Anthropology · Archaeology and Rock Art Studies · Fashion and Cultural Textiles · History · Law · Public Spaces through Art

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Unique citing works3
Citations per year0,75
Citation span2022 - 2026 (5)
Citation velocitycurrent
Highly citedNo
Citation typesNeutral: 3

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