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Resumo

In Hong Kong, yumcha as a pervasive form of eating in the public has become an institution which epitomises the diversity and inclusiveness that Hong Kong people think are quintessential to the civility and economic achievement of the metropolis. It stands out particularly as a practice that has come to represent both locally and overseas a Hong Kong culture which has previously been characterised as residual of 'Chinese tradition' and 'Western customs', and hence is virtually non‐existent. This paper looks at the consumption of metropolitaneity and the culturalisation of the heunggongyan or Hong Kong personal identity in the form, content and social relations involved in yumcha. It points to the significance of yumcha as a key to understanding a collective identity which has become more and more apparent as Hong Kong people vehemently try to establish a city with its own culture, first against the colonial grip and then the return of sovereignty to China in 1997.

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