J Pilcher
Biographic Data
| ID | 10738 |
|---|---|
| NAME | J Pilcher |
| GIVEN NAMES | J |
| FAMILY NAME | Pilcher |
| SIGNATURE | PILCHER J |
| AFFILIATIONS | University of Toronto |
| ORCID | 0000-0002-3540-5310 |
| VERIFIED | Yes |
| TOTAL WORKS | 39 |
| TOTAL CITATIONS | 66 |
| AUTHOR COUNT | 39 |
| EDITOR COUNT | 0 |
| FIRST PUBLICATION YEAR | 1994 |
| LATEST PUBLICATION YEAR | 2024 |
| H-INDEX | 4 |
The Globalization of Guinness: Marketing Taste, Transferring Technology
Brewed in 50 countries and consumed in 150, Guinness Stout has become a global commodity. Although associated with Irish pubs and diasporic populations, it has also become popular in former British colonies of Africa and Southeast Asia. This article adopts a mobility studies perspective to show how Guinness built its global appeal, first through trade and settlement in the British empire during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and su…
Global Migrants Foodways
Volume 2 of The Cambridge History of Global Migrations presents an authoritative overview of the various continuities and changes in migration and globalization from the 1800s to the present day. Despite revolutionary changes in communication technologies, the growing accessibility of long-distance travel, and globalization across major economies, the rise of nation-states empowered immigration regulation and bureaucratic capacities for enforceme…
From Panocha to Fudge
Although the origins of the popular candy called fudge have been traced to American industrial processed foods of the 1880s, an early version known as panochita de leche was made in eighteenth-century Mexico using only rustic brown sugar and milk. The authors of this article combined the methodologies of physical chemistry and food history to examine the development of this dish using the science of sugar refining as well as manuscript and publis…
Recreating Colonial Mexican Fudge
The kitchen laboratory has not yet replaced field work and the written archive as sites for Food Studies research, but recreating historical recipes has gained growing recognition for its value in understanding the materiality and taste of foods from the past. Already in the early twentieth century, the Vassar College historian Lucy Maynard Salmon brought cookbooks and kitchen utensils into her seminars—to sneers from her male colleagues. Barbara…
Imperial Hops: Beer in the Age of Empire
The global spread of lager beers such as Heineken, Budweiser, Sapporo and Corona offers a seemingly classic case of cultural imperialism displacing local beverages including Japanese sake, Bolivian chicha, and African sorghum beer. Empire indeed launched beer to global status, beginning with British brewers shipping ale and porter to provision imperial agents around the world, although by the turn of the twentieth century, the crisp, clean taste …
If you wanted garlic, you had to go to Kensington: Culinary infrastructure and immigrant entrepreneurship in Toronto’s food markets before official multiculturalism
This essay examines how culinary infrastructure encouraged and impeded immigrant entrepreneurship in provisioning Toronto before Canada adopted an official policy of multiculturalism in the 1970s. Culinary infrastructure refers broadly to facilities and technologies – both physical and knowledge-based – that undergird food systems. The Anglo-dominated infrastructural hub of the St. Lawrence market provided the central food retailing space during …
Meat Makes People Powerful: A Global History of the Modern Era. By Wilson J. Warren
The past hundred and fifty years have been an age of mass meat consumption that is unrivaled in human history. Although some earlier hunter-gatherers and nomadic-pastoralists ate as much meat as the average western consumer, they were invariably small in numbers. Among populous agrarian societies, regular access to meat had always been limited to a tiny elite. This carnivorous diet has been made possible for the industrial working classes of the …
Introduction: Between Cosmopolitanism and Localism
With this issue, Global Food History completes five years as the first scholarly journal dedicated to historical research not only on food around the world but also on how food has connected the wo
The land of seven moles: Mexican culinary nationalism in an age of multiculturalism
Mole, a complex sauce of chiles and spices often served with turkey, has long been considered Mexico's national dish, but as a symbol of culinary nationalism, its meanings have changed significantly over time. This article uses mole to examine elite and popular expressions of culinary nationalism that accompanied the rise of neoliberal multiculturalism in the 1990s. In particular, it considers the shift away from the city of Puebla's singular mol…
Introduction to Forum, Mole Poblano: New approaches to Mexico’s national dish
Mole poblano has been called Mexico’s national dish, and it has been used to support diverse views of the national identity. This introduction summarizes four articles examining mole from the perspective of history, art history, and transnational ethnography. The theme of gendered and racialized labor provides the key for understanding the complex role of mole in Mexican identities
Teaching Food History: A Discussion Among Practitioners
This roundtable discussion examines pedagogical practices in the emerging field of food history. Participants shared their experiences in a wide variety of different institutional settings and considered the differences between a food history classroom and more traditional history courses. Topics included how best to teach the history of taste, chronological and temporal scales of analysis, and issues of social justice. Discussants also problemat…
Southern Provisions: The Creation and Revival of a Cuisine
Gergely Baics. Feeding Gotham: The Political Economy and Geography of Food in New York, 1790–1860
Progressive reformers and historical researchers have documented the deep inequalities of nineteenth-century urbanization, including the relative lack of adequate housing, water, and sewage in New York City tenements, but, until recently, scholars largely neglected that other basic human need—access to food. In this important book, Feeding Gotham: The Political Economy and Geography of Food in New York, 1790–1860, Gergely Baics develops digital t…
A Taste of Power: Food and American Identities
In just a few decades, American food history has been transformed from terra incognita to a well-mapped field, but, as Katharina Vester observes, significant gaps remain in our knowledge of food and the past. Using Foucauldian discourses of domination and resistance, she examines conflicting ideals of a national cuisine in the early republic, cookbooks written for men from the 1890s to the 1970s, and lesbian culinary literature from the past cent…
Preface: Culinary Infrastructure
Culinary Infrastructure: How Facilities and Technologies Create Value and Meaning around Food
Culinary infrastructure comprises the diverse artifacts, organizations, and media that mobilize food or that organize and convey knowledge about food, thereby facilitating production and consumption, but without having those transformations as a direct goal. This infrastructure includes both material components (such as transportation and sewage networks, marketplaces and ports, refrigeration, and communication technologies) and immaterial or emb…
Creating a common table in twentieth-century Argentina: Doña Petrona, women, and food
The Embodied Imagination in Recent Writings on Food History
Journal Article The Embodied Imagination in Recent Writings on Food History Get access Jeffrey M. Pilcher Jeffrey M. Pilcher Jeffrey M. Pilcher is Professor of Food History at the University of Toronto, the first such dedicated position in a North American university. His books include Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food (Oxford University Press, 2012), Food in World History (Routledge, 2006), and ¡Que vivan los tamales! Food and the Ma…
The Whole Enchilada: A Full Plate of Food History
Having begun my career as a cultural historian of Mexico at a time when food history was scarcely recognized as a legitimate subject of scholarship, I welcome Matt Garcia's avowedly outsider views on the state of the field that I now call home.I first encountered Mexican food at the age of eighteen, and by pursuing it with the zeal of a religious convert, I noticed connections between food and society that may have been taken for granted by many …
Brewed in Japan: The Evolution of the Japanese Beer Industry
Brewed in Japan: The Evolution of the Japanese Beer Industry." Food, Culture & Society, 18(4), pp. 705–706
The Food Industries of Europe in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries
"Old Stock" Tamales and Migrant Tacos: Taste, Authenticity, and the Naturalization of Mexican Food
This article uses food to examine the process of immigrant naturalization in the United States. It compares the experiences of Hispanic residents of the Southwest during the nineteenth century with that of Mexican migrants to the New York City in the late twentieth century. It shows how successive generations of new immigrants have used food to think in new ways about what it means to be legitimately American. It concludes that foods do not simpl…
Cultural Histories of Food
Because of its essential role in human life, food has been a part of historical narratives since antiquity. As the proper subject of professional inquiry, however, food gained recognition only in the 1990s with the advent of the so-called new cultural history. Whereas the disciplinary hegemony of culture has begun to fragment and decline, the field of food history continues to grow significantly. Therefore, it is only fitting to reflect on the hi…
The Oxford handbook of food history
Eating à la Criolla: Global and Local Foods in Argentina, Cuba, and Mexico
This essay examines the changing meanings of local and global foods in Argentina, Cuba, and Mexico. Nineteenth-century Latin America is often viewed as a period of liberal ascendancy when imported goods were highly valued, while on the contrary, the twentieth century is seen as a time of populist nationalism that embraced local culture and, at least until the neoliberal era, rejected European and North American imports. Nevertheless, liberals sou…
Tamales or Timbales: Cuisine and the Formation of Mexican National Identity, 1821–1911
Mexican writers of the twentieth century have often imagined cuisine to be a symbol of their national identity, a mestizo blend of Native American and Spanish influences. Salvador Novo, for example, a member of the Academia Mexicana de la Lengua and official chronicler of Mexico City, traced the beginnings of mestizaje to the “happy encounter” between corn tortillas and pork sausage that produced the first taco. The most common culinary metaphor …
The Embodied Imagination in Recent Writings on Food History
Journal Article The Embodied Imagination in Recent Writings on Food History Get access Jeffrey M. Pilcher Jeffrey M. Pilcher Jeffrey M. Pilcher is Professor of Food History at the University of Toronto, the first such dedicated position in a North American university. His books include Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food (Oxford University Press, 2012), Food in World History (Routledge, 2006), and ¡Que vivan los tamales! Food and the Ma…
The Globalization of Mexican Cuisine
The international presence of Mexican cuisine has expanded tremendously since the 1960s. Before that time it was hard to find tacos or enchiladas outside Mexico or its former territory in the Southwestern United States, but Mexican restaurants and processed foods are now available around the world. This transformation has come about largely as a result of North American marketing of Tex‐Mex, which raises important questions for theories of global…
Culinary Infrastructure: How Facilities and Technologies Create Value and Meaning around Food
Culinary infrastructure comprises the diverse artifacts, organizations, and media that mobilize food or that organize and convey knowledge about food, thereby facilitating production and consumption, but without having those transformations as a direct goal. This infrastructure includes both material components (such as transportation and sewage networks, marketplaces and ports, refrigeration, and communication technologies) and immaterial or emb…
Who Chased Out the "Chili Queens"? Gender, Race, and Urban Reform in San Antonio, Texas, 1880-1943
From time immemorial San Antonio was famed for its "chili queens." Then, in 1937, with an election coming on, Mayor Charles Kennon Quin conceived a sudden passion for civic reform. His city health officer announced that the chili stands were unsanitary (as if any germ could survive in a bath of salsa piquante) and his burly police ran them off the streets. 1 1. Green Peyton, San Antonio: City in the Sun (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1946), 144
The land of seven moles: Mexican culinary nationalism in an age of multiculturalism
Mole, a complex sauce of chiles and spices often served with turkey, has long been considered Mexico's national dish, but as a symbol of culinary nationalism, its meanings have changed significantly over time. This article uses mole to examine elite and popular expressions of culinary nationalism that accompanied the rise of neoliberal multiculturalism in the 1990s. In particular, it considers the shift away from the city of Puebla's singular mol…
Empire of the “Jungle”: The Rise of an Atlantic Refrigerated Beef Industry , 1880–1920
This essay seeks to broaden traditional narratives of industrial meatpacking by framing the story within the Atlantic world rather than simply the United States and by examining consumption as well as production. The development of refrigerated meatpacking entailed radical changes in the taste of meat while also requiring the use of untested chemical preservatives, promoting considerable resistance from consumers. Chicago firms such as Swift and …
If you wanted garlic, you had to go to Kensington: Culinary infrastructure and immigrant entrepreneurship in Toronto’s food markets before official multiculturalism
This essay examines how culinary infrastructure encouraged and impeded immigrant entrepreneurship in provisioning Toronto before Canada adopted an official policy of multiculturalism in the 1970s. Culinary infrastructure refers broadly to facilities and technologies – both physical and knowledge-based – that undergird food systems. The Anglo-dominated infrastructural hub of the St. Lawrence market provided the central food retailing space during …
Creating a common table in twentieth-century Argentina: Doña Petrona, women, and food
The Food Industries of Europe in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries
Fajitas and the Failure of Refrigerated Meatpacking in Mexico: Consumer Culture and Porfirian Capitalism
Tourists who visit a Mexican market to observe a butcher at work will readily notice the difference between the material cultures of meat in Mexico and the United States. Instead of thick, neatly cut steaks, wrapped in clear plastic, they will find butterflied strips of meat, corresponding to no known part of a cow, sawed with ragged edges but remarkable thinness, and hung on hooks and rods. Thick slabs called suadero might be steak except for th…
El Signo de la Mugre: Cantinflas, Cross-Dressing, and the Creation of a Mexican Mass Audience
2000). El Signo de la Mugre : Cantinflas, Cross-Dressing, and the Creation of a Mexican Mass Audience. Journal of Latin American Cultural Studies: Vol. 9, No. 3, pp. 333-348
Mad cowmen, foreign investors and the Mexican Revolution
‘Today in Merrie England,’ reported the Mexican Herald on 7 October 1909, gracing ‘the ends of traditional English boards is roasted beef from the plains of Mexico’. The man who sent that first steamship of Mexican meat to England, John Wesley de Kay, president of the Mexican National Packing Company, hoped that his refrigerated beef exports would soon rival those of Argentina and the United States.1 Washington National Record Center (hereafter W…
Instructions to Authors
RADIOCARBON is an international journal published three times a year in the United States. Besides our regular issues, which consist mainly of articles of original research, reports of techniques, and date lists, we also publish proceedings of international conferences on radiocarbon dating and related fields. These may appear in Special Issues (see below) or in volumes outside the regular journal series. We ask contributors to use simple, straig…
Tamales or Timbales: Cuisine and the Formation of Mexican National Identity, 1821–1911
Mexican writers of the twentieth century have often imagined cuisine to be a symbol of their national identity, a mestizo blend of Native American and Spanish influences. Salvador Novo, for example, a member of the Academia Mexicana de la Lengua and official chronicler of Mexico City, traced the beginnings of mestizaje to the “happy encounter” between corn tortillas and pork sausage that produced the first taco. The most common culinary metaphor …
Mad cowmen, foreign investors and the Mexican Revolution
‘Today in Merrie England,’ reported the Mexican Herald on 7 October 1909, gracing ‘the ends of traditional English boards is roasted beef from the plains of Mexico’. The man who sent that first steamship of Mexican meat to England, John Wesley de Kay, president of the Mexican National Packing Company, hoped that his refrigerated beef exports would soon rival those of Argentina and the United States.1 Washington National Record Center (hereafter W…
El Signo de la Mugre: Cantinflas, Cross-Dressing, and the Creation of a Mexican Mass Audience
2000). El Signo de la Mugre : Cantinflas, Cross-Dressing, and the Creation of a Mexican Mass Audience. Journal of Latin American Cultural Studies: Vol. 9, No. 3, pp. 333-348
The Human Tradition in Mexico
Julio Moreno — Yankee Don't Go Home! Mexican Nationalism, American Business Culture, and the Shaping of Modern Mexico, 1920-1950
Left History features articles from a variety of theoretical approaches; these include feminist, marxist, and postmodernist deliberations on topics such as race, ethnicity, class, gender, sexuality, culture, the state, labour, the environment, theory, and method
Empire of the “Jungle”: The Rise of an Atlantic Refrigerated Beef Industry , 1880–1920
This essay seeks to broaden traditional narratives of industrial meatpacking by framing the story within the Atlantic world rather than simply the United States and by examining consumption as well as production. The development of refrigerated meatpacking entailed radical changes in the taste of meat while also requiring the use of untested chemical preservatives, promoting considerable resistance from consumers. Chicago firms such as Swift and …
The Human Tradition in Mexico
Chapter 1 Introduction, A Map of the System Part 2 I. Independent Spirits, 1750-1850 Chapter 3 Josefa Ordonez: The Scandalous Adventures of a Colonial Courtesan Chapter 4 Anahuac's Angry Apostle: Fray Servando Teresa de Mier Chapter 5 Lucas Balderas: Popular Leader and Patriot Part 6 II. Heirs of the Reforma, 1850-1910 Chapter 7 Agnes Salm-Salm: An American Princess in Maximilan's Mexico Chapter 8 Felipe Garcia and the Real Heroes of Guelatao Cha…
Fajitas and the Failure of Refrigerated Meatpacking in Mexico: Consumer Culture and Porfirian Capitalism
Tourists who visit a Mexican market to observe a butcher at work will readily notice the difference between the material cultures of meat in Mexico and the United States. Instead of thick, neatly cut steaks, wrapped in clear plastic, they will find butterflied strips of meat, corresponding to no known part of a cow, sawed with ragged edges but remarkable thinness, and hung on hooks and rods. Thick slabs called suadero might be steak except for th…
Historia de la Ciudad de México en los fines de siglo (XV-XX)
The end of a century is often a time of dire foreboding, and few cities have inspired more apocalyptic visions than Mexico/Tenochtitlan. Yet intimations of disaster also promise future rebirth, and the Mexican people have shown endless patience in raising their capital from the ashes of previous suns. Through both destruction and renewal, this splendid book chronicles the many compelling lives of Mexico City.This volume is the latest in a series …
The Globalization of Mexican Cuisine
The international presence of Mexican cuisine has expanded tremendously since the 1960s. Before that time it was hard to find tacos or enchiladas outside Mexico or its former territory in the Southwestern United States, but Mexican restaurants and processed foods are now available around the world. This transformation has come about largely as a result of North American marketing of Tex‐Mex, which raises important questions for theories of global…
Food: The History of Taste , edited by Paul Freedman
Who Chased Out the "Chili Queens"? Gender, Race, and Urban Reform in San Antonio, Texas, 1880-1943
From time immemorial San Antonio was famed for its "chili queens." Then, in 1937, with an election coming on, Mayor Charles Kennon Quin conceived a sudden passion for civic reform. His city health officer announced that the chili stands were unsanitary (as if any germ could survive in a bath of salsa piquante) and his burly police ran them off the streets. 1 1. Green Peyton, San Antonio: City in the Sun (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1946), 144
Food Scholarship and Food Writing
The food publishing world has been reeling from the demise of Gourmet magazine, slashed budgets for newspapers' food sections, and a pervasive fear that only cookbooks by Rachael Ray, TV personalities or celebrity chefs will ever be published. The world of academic food publishing has witnessed no such decline, and is flourishing as never before, with new series from university presses, expanding sessions in disciplinary conferences and, of cours…
Cultural Histories of Food
Because of its essential role in human life, food has been a part of historical narratives since antiquity. As the proper subject of professional inquiry, however, food gained recognition only in the 1990s with the advent of the so-called new cultural history. Whereas the disciplinary hegemony of culture has begun to fragment and decline, the field of food history continues to grow significantly. Therefore, it is only fitting to reflect on the hi…
The Oxford handbook of food history
Eating à la Criolla: Global and Local Foods in Argentina, Cuba, and Mexico
This essay examines the changing meanings of local and global foods in Argentina, Cuba, and Mexico. Nineteenth-century Latin America is often viewed as a period of liberal ascendancy when imported goods were highly valued, while on the contrary, the twentieth century is seen as a time of populist nationalism that embraced local culture and, at least until the neoliberal era, rejected European and North American imports. Nevertheless, liberals sou…
The Food Industries of Europe in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries
"Old Stock" Tamales and Migrant Tacos: Taste, Authenticity, and the Naturalization of Mexican Food
This article uses food to examine the process of immigrant naturalization in the United States. It compares the experiences of Hispanic residents of the Southwest during the nineteenth century with that of Mexican migrants to the New York City in the late twentieth century. It shows how successive generations of new immigrants have used food to think in new ways about what it means to be legitimately American. It concludes that foods do not simpl…
Brewed in Japan: The Evolution of the Japanese Beer Industry
Brewed in Japan: The Evolution of the Japanese Beer Industry." Food, Culture & Society, 18(4), pp. 705–706
Preface: Culinary Infrastructure
Culinary Infrastructure: How Facilities and Technologies Create Value and Meaning around Food
Culinary infrastructure comprises the diverse artifacts, organizations, and media that mobilize food or that organize and convey knowledge about food, thereby facilitating production and consumption, but without having those transformations as a direct goal. This infrastructure includes both material components (such as transportation and sewage networks, marketplaces and ports, refrigeration, and communication technologies) and immaterial or emb…
Creating a common table in twentieth-century Argentina: Doña Petrona, women, and food
The Embodied Imagination in Recent Writings on Food History
Journal Article The Embodied Imagination in Recent Writings on Food History Get access Jeffrey M. Pilcher Jeffrey M. Pilcher Jeffrey M. Pilcher is Professor of Food History at the University of Toronto, the first such dedicated position in a North American university. His books include Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food (Oxford University Press, 2012), Food in World History (Routledge, 2006), and ¡Que vivan los tamales! Food and the Ma…
The Whole Enchilada: A Full Plate of Food History
Having begun my career as a cultural historian of Mexico at a time when food history was scarcely recognized as a legitimate subject of scholarship, I welcome Matt Garcia's avowedly outsider views on the state of the field that I now call home.I first encountered Mexican food at the age of eighteen, and by pursuing it with the zeal of a religious convert, I noticed connections between food and society that may have been taken for granted by many …
Culinary Culture and Tourism (25 works) · Political science (24 works) · Law (19 works) · History (17 works) · Sociology (17 works) · Anthropology (9 works) · Law (9 works) · Politics (9 works) · Economics (8 works) · Geography (8 works)