Behind the Seams
Designers and Tailors in Popular Hindi Cinema
Bibliographic Data
| ID | 12410395 |
|---|---|
| Authors | Clare Wilkinson‐weber, Clare M Wilkinson‐weber (University of Pennsylvania, corresponding author) |
| Year | 2004 |
| Volume | 20 |
| Issue | 2 |
| Pages | 3-21 |
| Publication date | 2004-09-01 |
| Peer Reviewed | Yes |
| Open Access | Yes |
| Type | ARTICLE |
| Venue | Visual Anthropology Review (JOURNAL) |
| Journal identifiers | ISSN: 1058-7187 • E-ISSN: 1548-7458 |
| Publisher | Wiley (PUBLISHER • GB) |
| DOI | 10.1525/var.2004.20.2.3 |
| OpenAlex | W2140801322 |
| Language | EN |
| Citations received | 9 |
| References cited | 7 |
This article examines cultural production and social relations in the making of costume for commercial Hindi cinema, focusing in particular upon costume (“dress”) designers and tailors. Dress designers see themselves as the creative force in costume production, regarding tailors who stitch the costumes as mere technicians. In fact, interviews with tailors reveal that they regard their own contributions as both creative and essential. With the rise in fashion markets and media industries in India, the dress designer is ever more important as an “gimage consultant” who can consolidate a star's positioning in the worlds of both film and fashion. At the same time, the paternalistic connection between tailors and their clients, wherein customers–including film stars–go to a personal tailor to have their clothes made‐to‐measure, endures. In converting the designer's conception into a costume, the tailor claims a degree of inventiveness and creativity that is separate from the designer's. At the same time, tailors see themselves providing a necessary and personal service to the star. The tailor, a largely anonymous figure in western film designing and costuming, remains a key figure in Indian film costume
Aesthetics · Art · Clothing · Costume design · Hindi · Movie theater · Political science · Visual arts · Cinema and Media Studies · Computer Science · Fashion and Cultural Textiles · Law · South Asian Cinema and Culture
The Dressman's Line
Transformations and Tactics
Birth shock! What role might arts engagement have to play in antenatal and postnatal care
What Happens When Women Dominate Traditional Craft Industries
Of Ghosts and Gangsters
What Does It Look Like
Introduction
Tailoring Expectations
From Commodity to Costume
| Unique citing works | 9 |
|---|---|
| Citations per year | 0,43 |
| Citation span | 2005 - 2020 (16) |
| Citation velocity | historical |
| Highly cited | No |
| Citation types | Neutral: 8 |