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Traditional Fine Homespun Hemp Linen Fabrics

About Qualities and Usages in Ritual and Secular Contexts

Bibliographic Data

ID16776580
AuthorsGit Skoglund (0000-0002-0045-5967, Twitter (United States), corresponding author)
Year2023
Volume21
Issue1
Pages46-65
Publication date2023-01-02
Open AccessNo
TypeARTICLE
VenueTEXTILE (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 1475-9756 • E-ISSN: 1751-8350
PublisherInforma UK Limited (PUBLISHER • GB)
DOI10.1080/14759756.2021.1966726
OpenAlexW3206983699
LanguageEN
Citations received2
References cited12

Traditional European and East Asian cultures have for centuries grown hemp (Cannabis) to make homespun yarn and weave linens (plain weave fabrics) used both in ritual and secular contexts. Even so, few academic sources have discussed fine hemp linen fabrics and how they look. In publications concerning textile plants and the fabrics made from them, when hemp is mentioned, it is usually relegated to the weaving of coarse fabrics used by the poor lower classes. Unrecognized is that by employing only manual methods hemp fabrics can reach fine qualities, and that they were used by people of many social strata. Also frequently overlooked is that coarse fabrics were made from a range of other fiber plants including flax and ramie. In addition, that “coarse” and “fine” are relative terms subject to various interpretations makes textile comparisons difficult. This paper explores a collection of representative textiles from Europe and Asia made of homegrown and homespun hemp, with a focus on the various fabrics. Also discusses the importance of their cultural contexts as reasons for their preservation. Initial examination was performed by manual fiber identification protocols and a digital microscope was used to measure and record yarn diameter and fabric density

Archaeology · Art · Composite material · Fiber · Geography · Plain weave · Ramie · Textile · Visual arts · Weaving · Yarn · Materials Science · Public Spaces through Art · Textile materials and evaluations

  • Development of Lurik Weaving Motive Designs with Coloured Weft Threads in Indonesia

    Open Access•Mulyanto Mulyanto, Desy Nurcahyanti et al.•International Society for the…•2024

  • Identification of Blended Hemp Textiles from the Middle Ages to the 20 th Century

    Git Skoglund•TEXTILE•2023

  • Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe

    R H Britnell, N B Harte et al.•The Economic History Review•1984

  • The first plant bast fibre technology

    Open Access•Margarita Gleba, Harri et al.•Archaeological and Anthropological…•2019

Citations per year0.67
Citation span2023 - 2024 (2)
Highly citedNo

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