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Identification of Blended Hemp Textiles from the Middle Ages to the 20 th Century

Bibliographic Data

ID16776570
AuthorsGit Skoglund (0000-0002-0045-5967, Twitter (United States), corresponding author)
Year2023
Volume21
Issue1
Pages254-273
Publication date2023-01-02
Open AccessNo
TypeARTICLE
VenueTEXTILE (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 1475-9756 • E-ISSN: 1751-8350
PublisherInforma UK Limited (PUBLISHER • GB)
DOI10.1080/14759756.2022.2053276
OpenAlexW4224226650
LanguageEN
Citations received1
References cited16

Historical research about textiles made from bast fibers has progressed in recent years broadening our perspectives of people’s needs for textile raw materials. Despite this, analyses of textiles made of mixed fibers from a variety of plants have not received sufficient attention. Textiles were often made of blends of different bast plant fibers, which was during historical time common but is rarely mentioned in research, compounding the difficulty of accurate fiber identification. Fibers could be blended as the yarn was spun, of yarns different fibers were woven into a single fabric, and various fabrics were assembled in a range of everyday textiles. Without relying on proper analysis protocols, it is difficult of distinguish different bast fibers, and this has resulted in the misidentification of textiles in museum collections. This study addresses seven representative’s handmade textiles with a focus on hemp, combined with either flax, hop, ramie or cotton. The various textile fibers identified indicate that blends were common from the Middle Ages until modern times

Bast fibre · Biology · Botany · Composite material · Fiber · Identification (biology · Polymer science · Pulp and paper industry · Ramie · Raw material · Synthetic fiber · Textile · Yarn · Archaeology and ancient environmental studies · Chemistry · Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis · Engineering · Materials Science · Paleopathology and ancient diseases

  • A Heritage “Nettle” Sheet Reveals the First Physical Evidence of a Hemp/Hop Textile from Denmark

    Git Skoglund, Jenni A Suomela et al.•TEXTILE•2025

  • Viking and Early Middle Ages Northern Scandinavian Textiles Proven to be made with Hemp

    Open Access•Git Skoglund, Margareta Nockert et al.•Scientific Reports•2013

  • Traditional manufacture of hemp and hop textiles

    Open Access•Git Skoglund•Journal of Anthropology and…•2021

  • Traditional Fine Homespun Hemp Linen Fabrics

    Git Skoglund•TEXTILE•2023

  • Is Cross‐Section Shape a Distinct Feature in Plant Fibre Identification

    Open Access•Hana Lukešová, Bodil Holst•Archaeometry•2021

  • First experimental evidence of hop fibres in historical textiles

    Open Access•Git Skoglund, Bodil Holst et al.•Archaeological and Anthropological…•2020

Citations per year1
Citation span2025 - 2025 (1)
Highly citedNo

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