Skip to main content

ETHNOS_APP

Home • Search • Journals • List 0

First experimental evidence of hop fibres in historical textiles

Bibliographic Data

ID5403761
AuthorsGit Skoglund (0000-0002-0045-5967, University of Bergen), Bodil Holst (0000-0001-6809-2579, University of Bergen), Hana Lukešová (0000-0003-0944-2932, University of Bergen)
Year2020
Volume12
Issue9
Publication date2020-09-01
Open AccessYes
TypeARTICLE
VenueArchaeological and Anthropological Sciences (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 1866-9557 • E-ISSN: 1866-9565
PublisherSpringer Science and Business Media LLC (PUBLISHER)
DOI10.1007/s12520-020-01171-6
OpenAlexW3049121805
LanguageEN
Citations received4
References cited10

Hop (Humulus lupulus) has been used in Scandinavia since at least the ninth century AD, as documented through archaeological findings and written, historical records. The written records are mainly focused on the use of cone-shaped flowers for beer brewing and medical purposes, but there are also records, for example, from the famous Swedish botanist Carl von Linne, who mentions the use of hop fibres for textile production. However, until now no experimental investigations have been published on the use of hop fibres in cultural heritage objects. A major reason for this has been the lack of a suitable characterization method. Hop is a bast fibre, just as flax and hemp and bast fibres cannot be distinguished from each other by simple optical inspection. Recently a new identification method for hop fibres was published by the authors of this article. Here we apply the new method in an investigation of two Swedish cultural heritage objects: (i) a woman's garment from the nineteenth century, which was labelled as having an upper section made from coarse linen and a bottom section made of hemp and hop and (ii) a textile fragment from an eighteenth-century textile sample book, which was labelled as being made from hop. We show that the woman's garment is made with hop and hemp fibres and the textile fragment from the textile sample book is made with hop. Our work provides the first direct proof that hop fibres were used for textiles in the past

Archaeology · Bast fibre · Composite material · Hop (telecommunications · Telecommunications · Textile · Engineering · Fermentation and Sensory Analysis · History · Hops Chemistry and Applications · Horticultural and Viticultural Research · Materials Science

  • Traditional manufacture of hemp and hop textiles

    Open Access•Git Skoglund•Journal of Anthropology and…•2021

  • A Heritage “Nettle” Sheet Reveals the First Physical Evidence of a Hemp/Hop Textile from Denmark

    Git Skoglund, Jenni A Suomela et al.•TEXTILE•2025

  • Identification of Blended Hemp Textiles from the Middle Ages to the 20 th Century

    Git Skoglund•TEXTILE•2023

  • Identifying Late Iron Age textile plant fibre materials with microscopy and X-ray methods - a study on finds from Ravattula Ristimäki (Kaarina, Finland)

    Open Access•Jenni A Suomela, Heikki Suhonen et al.•Archaeological and Anthropological…•2022

  • A procedure for identifying textile bast fibres using microscopy

    Open Access•Christian Bergfjord, Bodil Holst•Ultramicroscopy•2010

  • Viking and Early Middle Ages Northern Scandinavian Textiles Proven to be made with Hemp

    Open Access•Git Skoglund, Margareta Nockert et al.•Scientific Reports•2013

  • Identifying plant fibre textiles from Norwegian Merovingian Period and Viking Age graves

    Open Access•Hana Lukešová, Adrià Salvador Palau et al.•Journal of Archaeological Science…•2017

  • Genetic Diversity in Remnant Swedish Hop (Humulus lupulus L.) Yards from the 15th to 18th Century

    Open Access•Else-Marie Karlsson Strese, Maria Lundström et al.•Economic Botany•2014

  • Is It Hop? Identifying Hop Fibres in a European Historical Context

    Open Access•Hana Lukešová, Heidi Lie Andersen et al.•Archaeometry•2019

  • Flax look‐alikes

    Open Access•E Haugan, Bodil Holst•Archaeometry•2014

Citations per year0.8
Citation span2021 - 2025 (5)
Highly citedNo

Tools

Open DOIOpen Access
Ethnos_APP • Open Source Project • MIT License • Frontend v2.0.0 • Privacy and Cookies • API Documentation: api.ethnos.app/docs • API Source Code: GitHub • DOI: 10.5281/zenodo.17049435 • Frontend Source Code: GitHub • DOI: 10.5281/zenodo.17050053 • cruz.rio.br • Expectantes Misericordiae