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A Garment in the Dock; or, How the FBI Illuminated the Prehistory of A Pair of Denim Jeans (Winner of the Journal of Material Culture Alfred Gell essay competition 2004)

Bibliographic Data

ID2390852
AuthorsKitty Hauser (Clare Hall, University of Cambridge, UK, corresponding author)
Year2004
Volume9
Issue3
Pages293-313
Publication date2004-11-01
Peer ReviewedYes
Open AccessYes
TypeARTICLE
VenueJournal of Material Culture (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 1359-1835 • E-ISSN: 1460-3586
PublisherSAGE Publications Inc (PUBLISHER)
DOI10.1177/1359183504046895
OpenAlexW1714681000
LanguageEN
Citations received11
References cited10

This article looks at research carried out at the FBI Laboratory's Special Photographic Unit in the identification of denim trousers from bank surveillance film. This research, which was published in 1998, showed that despite the ubiquity of jeans, each pair has individual identifying characteristics caused by the manufacturing process and by wear, and that these might be used as evidence in the identification of criminal suspects. What the FBI research also inadvertently illuminated was an otherwise hidden relationship between garment, maker and wearer, in an effective - if accidental - reversal of commodity fetishism

Accidental · Aesthetics · Archaeology · Art · Business · Clothing · Commodity · Competition (biology · Criminology · Denim · Fetishism · Identification (biology · Political science · Prehistory · Sociology · Anthropology · Art History and Market Analysis · Art, Politics, and Modernism · Fashion and Cultural Textiles · History · Law

  • Manifesto for a study of denim

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    Open Access•Fiona Jane Candy•Sociological Research Online•2005

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    Elyse Stanes•TEXTILE•2019

  • Practices of Object Maintenance and Repair

    Open Access•Nicky Gregson, Andrew Metcalfe et al.•Journal of Consumer Culture•2009

  • Law's Looking Glass

    Gary Edmond, Katherine Biber et al.•Current Issues in Criminal Justice•2009

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    Shelly Goldsmith•TEXTILE•2018

  • Evidence in the museum

    Open Access•Katherine Biber•Theoretical Criminology•2017

  • Life Itemised

    Open Access•Louise Crewe•Environment and Planning D…•2011

  • Le blue-jean

    Open Access•Daniel Miller•Techniques & culture•2009

  • La simulation de la consommation par la production

    Daniel Miller•Revue du MAUSS•2014

  • Object interviews, material imaginings and 'unsettling' methods

    Open Access•Sophie Woodward•Qualitative Research•2016

  • Detective fiction and the rise of forensic science

    Ronald R Thomas•Detective fiction and the rise of…•1999

  • Adorned in Dreams

    Elizabeth Wilson•Adorned in Dreams•1985

  • Suspect Identities

    Shelley A Cole, Simon A Cole•Suspect Identities•2001

  • Second-Hand Cultures

    Nicky Gregson, Louise Crewe•Second-Hand Cultures•2003

  • Capital

    Open Access•Karl Marx•On Violence•2020

  • Border Fetishisms

    Patricia Spyer•Border Fetishisms•2013

  • Fashion and the Fleshy Body

    Joanne Entwistle•Fashion Theory•2000

Unique citing works11
Citations per year0,52
Citation span2005 - 2019 (15)
Citation velocityhistorical
Highly citedNo
Citation typesNeutral: 11

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