Peru on a Plate
Coloniality and modernity in Peru's high-end cuisine
Bibliographic Data
| ID | 2630656 |
|---|---|
| Authors | Jorge López-Canales, Jorge Skiold López‐canale (0000-0002-0298-3173, The University of Melbourne, corresponding author) |
| Year | 2019 |
| Volume | 14 |
| Publication date | 2019-01-01 |
| Peer Reviewed | Yes |
| Open Access | Yes |
| Type | ARTICLE |
| Venue | Anthropology of food (JOURNAL) |
| Journal identifiers | ISSN: 1609-9168 • E-ISSN: 1609-9168 |
| Publisher | OpenEdition (PUBLISHER) |
| DOI | 10.4000/aof.10138 |
| OpenAlex | W2954601528 |
| Language | EN |
| Citations received | 10 |
| References cited | 30 |
As global dining culture turns increasingly homogeneous, there is a parallel interest in reconnecting with locality. Two global food movements codify this return to the local: the Slow Food and New Nordic Cuisine movements, both European in origin. I explore the characteristically modernist global-local ambivalence in the work of Virgilio Martinez, Peru's most highly awarded chef, whose project of bringing together a culturally rooted Peruvian cuisine appears closely aligned to the New Nordic Cuisine movement. Drawing on a decolonial framework, I argue that Martinez's desire to connect with Peru's ancestral cultural roots, not uncommon amongst upper-class Peruvian chefs, is hindered by an epistemic divide dating back to colonial times. Further vestiges of colonial history are also present in Martinez's taxonomic search for new ingredients and the visual focus of his aesthetic, both reminiscent of the Spanish botanical expeditions of the late 18th century. Martinez's latest project, Mil Centro, a restaurant and research centre located in an Inca archaeological site, offers new possibilities. The participatory involvement of neighbouring Quechua-speaking communities could signal new openings
Ambivalence · Archaeology · Citizen journalism · Colonialism · Ethnology · Locality · Modernity · Political science · Sociology · Anthropology · Culinary Culture and Tourism · History · Law · Organic Food and Agriculture · Wine Industry and Tourism
Edible Authenticities
Haute Traditional Cuisines
The Ethnic Restaurateur
The “McDonaldization” of Society
The Rise of the Network Society
Visible Empire
«Asia» (Lima, Perú), barrios cerrados para vacaciones de lujo
“I Am Not a Foodie…”
The rise and fall of the New Nordic Cuisine
Beyond culinary colonialism
A taste of ethical consumption at a slow food festival
Thinking Globally, Acting Locally
Cultivating Better Food Access? The Role of Farmers' Markets in the U.S. Local Food Movement
Globalisation and food consumption in tourism
Imperialist Nostalgia
Globalised Cuisine, Non-National Identities and the Individual
The search for the white Nordic
Not a simple coffee shop
Organic Hummus in Israel
Nordic Cuisine but National Identities
The Taste of Conquest
(In)edible Nature
| Unique citing works | 10 |
|---|---|
| Citations per year | 1,43 |
| Citation span | 2019 - 2025 (7) |
| Citation velocity | recent |
| Highly cited | No |
| Citation types | Neutral: 10 |