The Effects of 10 Weeks Hangboard Training on Climbing Specific Maximal Strength, Explosive Strength, and Finger Endurance
Bibliographic Data
| ID | 5284946 |
|---|---|
| Authors | Espen Hermans, Atle Hole Saeterbakken (0000-0002-5592-6551), Vegard Albert Vereide, Vegard Vereide, Ivar S O Nord, Nicolay Stien (0000-0001-5161-9055), Vidar Andersen (0000-0002-3496-8517) |
| Year | 2022 |
| Volume | 4 |
| Pages | 888158-888158 |
| Publication date | 2022-04-27 |
| Peer Reviewed | Yes |
| Open Access | Yes |
| Type | ARTICLE |
| Venue | Frontiers in Sports and Active Living (JOURNAL) |
| Journal identifiers | ISSN: 2624-9367 • E-ISSN: 2624-9367 |
| Publisher | Frontiers Media SA (PUBLISHER • CH) |
| DOI | 10.3389/fspor.2022.888158 |
| PMID | 35571743 |
| OpenAlex | W4224930274 |
| Language | EN |
| Citations received | 2 |
| References cited | 35 |
The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of 10 weeks of hangboard training (HBT) on climbing-specific maximal strength, explosive strength, and muscular endurance. In total, 35 intermediate- to advanced-level climbers (8 women and 27 men) were randomized into a hangboard training group (HBT) or a control group (CON). The HBT program consisted of two sessions of 48 min per week using the Beastmaker 1000 series hangboard, and the following application to smartphone. Both groups continued their normal climbing training routines. Pre- and post-intervention, maximal peak force, maximal average force, and rate of force development (RFD) were measured while performing an isometric pull-up on a 23 mm deep campus rung and jug holds. In addition, finger endurance was measured by performing a sustained dead-hang test on the same rung. The HBT increased peak force and average force in 23 mm rung condition, average force in jug condition, and utilization rate øl,.- in peak force to a greater extent than CON (p = 0.001-0.031, ES = 0.29-0.66), whereas no differences were detected between groups in RFD (jug or 23 mm), peak force in jug condition, utilization rate in RFD, average force or in dead-hang duration (p = 0.056-0.303). At post-test, the HBT group demonstrated 17, 18, 28, 10, 11, and 12% improvement in peak force, average force, RFD in 23 mm rung condition, average force in jug condition, utilization rate in peak force, and dead-hang duration, respectively [p = 0.001-0.006, effect size (ES) = 0.73-1.12] whereas no change was observed in CON (p = 0.213-0.396). In conclusion, 10 weeks of HBT in addition to regular climbing was highly effective for increasing maximal finger strength compared with continuing regular climbing training for intermediate and advanced climbers
Climbing · Isometric exercise · Physical therapy · Structural engineering · Engineering · Lower Extremity Biomechanics and Pathologies · Mathematics · Medicine · Sports injuries and prevention · Sports Performance and Training
| Unique citing works | 2 |
|---|---|
| Citations per year | 0,67 |
| Citation span | 2023 - 2023 (1) |
| Citation velocity | historical |
| Highly cited | No |
| Citation types | Neutral: 2 |