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Colorants Detected by HPLC-PDA in Textiles from 13th Century Lieto Ristinpelto, Finland

Bibliographic Data

ID13125599
AuthorsKrista Wright (0000-0002-8070-0407, Aalto University, corresponding author), Ina Vanden Berghe (0000-0002-2053-6000, Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage), Jenni Sahramaa (0000-0003-1914-041X, University of Helsinki), Jenni A Suomela (0000-0002-5070-5098, University of Helsinki)
Year2023
Volume6
Issue2
Pages1209-1226
Publication date2023-01-27
Open AccessYes
TypeARTICLE
VenueHeritage (JOURNAL)
Journal identifiersISSN: 2571-9408 • E-ISSN: 2571-9408
PublisherMDPI AG (PUBLISHER • IT)
DOI10.3390/heritage6020067
OpenAlexW4318484680
LanguageEN
Citations received1
References cited8

Organic colorants of textiles found in the female burial of Lieto Ristinpelto, SW Finland, were analyzed by HPLC-PDA. The textiles’ visible colors varied from different brownish shades to blueish, greenish, and reddish hues. The aim of the chromatographic analysis was to deepen the current understandings of the dyes used in Finland at the transition between the 12th and 13th centuries AD, i.e., at the beginning of the local Medieval period, and to contribute important new information about dyes and clothing from this less-known period of textile history of Finland. The textile finds consisted of a bronze spiral ornamented shawl, an apron tied at the waist, two tablet-woven bands, and a diagonally plaited band with plaited tassels. A unique find was a textile possibly made using the sprang technique. Other textile finds were an orange wool tabby and twill fragments. Analysis of thirty samples from fourteen different textiles indicated that woad colorants were present in most samples, accompanied with lichen compounds, and dyer’s madder was in two visually orange fragments. The visually reddish samples contained luteolin, but no red colorants

Archaeology · Art · Clothing · Composite material · Dyeing · Geography · Hue · Mordant · Optics · Orange (colour · Physics · Textile · Wool · Archaeology and ancient environmental studies · Chemistry · Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis · Dyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers · Materials Science · Food Science

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Citations per year0.33
Citation span2023 - 2023 (1)
Highly citedNo

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